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Showing posts with label THE GREEN SECRET. Show all posts
Showing posts with label THE GREEN SECRET. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 20, 2026

WINTER PRUNING

 My Winter Conversations with the Garden: Pruning in January and February

When the garden falls silent in winter, many people think nothing is happening. To them, it looks empty, cold, and still. But to me, this is when the garden speaks the loudest.

In January and February, I walk slowly among the bare branches, the quiet shrubs, and the sleeping trees. I listen — not with my ears, but with my eyes, my hands, and my memory of how each plant grew last season.

Winter pruning is not just work. For me, it is a conversation with nature.

Every cut I make is thoughtful. Every branch I remove tells a story of last summer’s sun, last spring’s rain, and last autumn’s wind. I do not prune to control the garden — I prune to guide it, care for it, and prepare it for a new beginning.

🌿 Why winter pruning matters to me

In winter, the plants rest. Their sap is slow, their energy is stored deep in their roots, and their structure is completely visible without leaves.

This makes winter the perfect time to shape, heal, and renew.

I prune in winter because:

I can clearly see the bones of the plant — its true form.

The plant feels less pain from cuts while dormant.

I am helping it wake up stronger when spring arrives.

But I never rush. I always wait for a dry, frost-free day, because frozen wood is fragile like glass. Cutting it can harm the plant deeply.

When the sun is gentle and the air is calm, that is my pruning moment.

🌹 My relationship with roses in winter




Roses are my most emotional pruning work.

They may look sad in winter — thorny, bare, and lifeless — but I know what beauty sleeps inside them.

I carefully remove:

Dead black canes

Weak, thin stems

Branches that cross and fight each other

For climbing roses, I treat them like old friends: I keep their strong main canes and gently tidy the side shoots.

Each cut is like clearing the past so they can bloom freely again.

When spring comes and they explode with color and fragrance, I feel like I helped write that story.

🌳 Fruit trees: shaping future harvests

With my apple and pear trees, winter pruning feels like sculpting.



I stand back, look at the whole tree, and imagine sunlight flowing through its branches in summer.

I:

Remove crowded branches

Open the center for light

Keep a balanced shape

I learned over the years that patience matters here. Too much cutting can weaken a tree; too little can suffocate it.

One important lesson I carry with me:

I never prune cherries, peaches, plums, or apricots in winter. They are more delicate and can get sick if cut too early. For them, I wait for warmer months.

πŸ’œ Wisteria — wild beauty that needs gentle discipline.



Wisteria is like a free spirit — powerful, dramatic, and unstoppable.

In winter, I shorten its long side shoots to just a few buds. It feels like guiding a strong river rather than blocking it.

This careful pruning helps:

Control its energy

Improve flowering

Keep it from swallowing walls, fences, or pergolas

When it blooms in spring with cascading purple flowers, I remember every winter cut that made that magic possible.

🌸 Hydrangeas — knowing which ones to touch

Some hydrangeas welcome winter pruning, others do not.

For summer-blooming hydrangeas (like panicle types), I prune now, reducing them by about one-third. This gives them strength and shape.

But I leave bigleaf hydrangeas completely untouched, because their flowers are already sleeping inside last year’s wood.

Learning the difference took time — and a few lost blooms — but that is how a gardener grows.

🟒 Buxus & Taxus — quiet evergreens



With boxwood (buxus) and yew (taxus), I keep my hand light in winter.

I only do gentle shaping, never hard cutting. These plants are steady, patient, and reliable — they don’t need drama, just care.

🌴 Palms — respect for life



Palms taught me one simple rule:

πŸ‘‰ Only remove completely brown, dead fronds.

Green or yellow fronds are still feeding the plant. Cutting them would be like taking food away from a living being.

This is a lesson in respect, not just pruning.

❌ What I leave alone in winter

Over the years, I’ve learned humility — sometimes the best pruning is no pruning at all.

I avoid cutting:

Lilac

Camellia

Forsythia

Early spring shrubs

Old-type hydrangeas

If I cut them now, I would be cutting away their flowers before they even wake up.

Waiting is also a form of care.

🌱 My personal winter rule

If I had to summarize my philosophy in one sentence, it would be:

If it blooms in summer, I prune in winter.

If it blooms in early spring, I wait with love and patience.

A final reflection

Every January and February, as I move quietly through my garden with my pruning shears, I feel grateful.

Grateful for the seasons.

Grateful for the resilience of plants.

Grateful for the privilege of tending life.

Winter pruning is not just maintenance — it is preparation, reflection, and hope.

Because every cut I make today is a promise of beauty tomorrow.

Friday, December 1, 2023

THE GREEN SECRET

Timing and Dosage for a Lush Lawn with Fertilizer
  
This is the Actual Photo, let say 99% free from weeds and lush is good.

Do you dream of having the greenest, envy-inducing lawn in the neighborhood? Well, the secret isn't just in watering and mowing – it's also about giving your grass the right kind of NPK and other nutrients. One crucial element in this equation is fertilizer. When and how you apply it can make all the difference between a lackluster lawn and one that's the talk of the town.

Timing is everything, and that holds true for your lawn as well. The ideal time to apply fertilizer depends on the type of grass you have and your local climate. Generally, early spring and late fall are excellent seasons for a fertilizer boost. In spring, it jump-starts the growing season, while in the fall, it helps your grass store up nutrients for the winter ahead. It's like giving your lawn a nutritious meal before a long hibernation. Just remember, patience is key – don't rush the process. Wait until the soil has thawed and dried a bit in the spring, and aim for a month before the first frost in the fall. If your going to take care your garden you have to remember  and considered the consideration, effort and passion its like you add up another member of the family, includes the budget and the likes.

The kind/type of food that we consume , as well as the quantity and frequency of eating largely depends on our need (factoring in our body type, lifestyle, etc) Babies generally feed on demand, and only on milk. As the baby grows bigger, he/she may be able to eat solid foods and eat bigger quantities of it to have enough energy as it becomes more active. The older the person gets, the more complex his/her nutrient requirements in terms of kind, quantity, and frequency of intake becomes. Regardless, to stay healthy, a person should regularly consume the right kind and amount of food. The same is true with all plants specially your lawn grass--to grow healthy and be productive, it should be provided with the right nutrients, how much, and the timing of application varies.


Now, let's talk about the dosage. Too little fertilizer, and your grass won't get the nutrients it needs. Too much, and you risk burning your lawn – a brown, patchy nightmare. The golden rule here is to follow the instructions on the fertilizer bag. These guidelines are there for a reason. Consider using a spreader to ensure an even application. It's like seasoning your lawn with just the right amount of plant food. And don't forget to water afterward; this helps the fertilizer settle into the soil and prevents any potential burns.

My Own formula of Fertilizer Application

Lawn Grass is approximately from 1 to 130 days from germination to its flowering stage and always depends of types of greens you want to start with and others factor that I mentioned.

I simply give you the exact time how to put your fertilizer based on experienced. I'm not saying that this is precise but it works a lot of time. I used an interval of 14 days, however you can make an interval of 7 to 20 days depend on your soil readings and assessment, location, weather and irrigation system. (It might work or not it depends)

DAYS

Stages

FERTILIZER AMOUNT

FERTILIZER NAME

 after 130 

over dressing and over seeding must be start again the cycle.

 

130

Flowering period

optional

 

116 

Booting period

3 kilograms per 1000 square meter

Ammonium phosphate

102

reGrowing phase

3 kilograms per 1000 square meter

Ammonium phosphate

88 

Stem initiation

5 kilograms per 1000 square meter

potash

74 

Bud growing

10 kilograms per 1000 square meter

complete

60 

Bud/panicle Initiation

5 kilograms per 1000 square meter

urea or Complete with lesser PK

46

Tillering

10 kilograms per 1000 square meter

complete

32 

Nodding

5 kilograms per 1000 square meter

urea or Complete with lesser PK

18 

vegetative

5 kilograms per 1000 square meter

urea  or Complete with lesser PK

4

seedling

25 kilograms per 1000 square meter

Complete fertilizer either organic or synthetic

1 Seeding

Germination

 

 

From 10 to 15 Days (Organic) you can make a basal system, means fertilizer first before the seeding.

From 2 to 5 Days (synthetic) you can make a basal system, means fertilizer first before the seeding.

REMEMBER:

FALL and SPRING - Above dosage must be cut or reduce to 50%.
Summer - Full Dosage listed above.
Winter - 25 to 30 percent of dosage only.
=** its always depend also on your actual observation of your plants and grass as well as your soil probe reading.

Types of fertilizer

  • Nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrate-based fertilizers are the most commonly used straight fertilizers in Europe.
  • Nitrogen fertilizers with inhibitors.
  • Phosphorus fertilizers.
  • Potassium fertilizers.
  • Calcium, magnesium and Sulphur Fertilizers.
  • Micronutrient fertilizers.
  • Inhibitors.

Legends:

COMPLETE FERTILIZER: The Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium elements are present, means it’s a complete NPK. Sample of Bag Numbering:14-14-14, 18-18-18, 24-24-24 

COMPLETE FERTILIZER with micro nutrients: The Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium elements are present plus Sulfur, Magnesium, Calcium, Iron,  means it’s a complete NPK plus other elements. Sample of Bag Numbering: 14-14-14-S, 18-18-18-Mg, 24-24-24-Fe

UREA FERTILIZER: Nitrogen Content Only: 46-0-0

AMONIUM PHOSPAHTE: Nitrogen and Potassium Only:16-20-0

DIAMMONIUM PHOSPHATE:
Double size of Nitrogen and Phosphorus: 18-46-0

MURIATE OF POTASH FERTILIZER: High Percentage of Potassium: 0-0-64

Solo Phosphate/POTASH: High Percentage of Potassium: 0-0-60

AMMONIUM SULFATE: Lesser concentration of Nitrogen:  21-0-0

**Fertilizer mentioned might be available or not be available in your area.


FACTS

1. In fertilizer understanding, we must understand the Numbers in the bags represent the percentage of its nutrients per bags of your fertilizers. 

2. Make an ample amount of watering before applying the fertilizer, for easy absorption and avoid the precipitation of your nutrients.

3. Applying fertilizer must done at cool temperature like around late afternoon, but not in the morning.

4. Always observed, provide a leaf index chart for fertilizer efficiency and a soil probe.

5. Always think ahead about your schedule, Budget, and procedure your making.

6. Expect the weeds, and other pest every after application of fertilizer.

  At the end of the day, fertilizing your lawn is like giving it a nutritious snack to keep it healthy and vibrant. Timing matters – think early spring and late fall – and dosage is crucial, so follow those instructions on the fertilizer bag. Treat your lawn right, and soon you'll have a lush, green carpet under your feet that's the envy of the entire neighborhood. Happy fertilizing!

REMINDER: Crucial Preparation:

1. Aerofy the soil us much as 3 to 7 cm depth-(plug of spike).

2. You can make a Vasal or follow our program on fertilizer.

3. Seeding (Select which method you like to do)

4. Soil Dressing

5. Soil Compaction

6. Irrigation (preferred manually for 5 to 9 days)

7. Read the Part Series in my blog. PART 7,8, this part and 10.

Acknowledgement: To Edgar Anyayahan, Department of Agriculture-Philippines, Agricultural Training Institute fertilizer experts.


WINTER PRUNING

 My Winter Conversations with the Garden: Pruning in January and February When the garden falls silent in winter, many people think nothing ...